Tucked into the very top of Ireland, the Inishowen Peninsula is the country’s northernmost corner and, for my money, one of its most rewarding. It’s a wild triangle of land between Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle, crowned by Malin Head, and it packs an astonishing amount into a single loop: Ireland’s most northerly point, one of Ireland’s tallest and least disturbed dune systems, an ancient hilltop fort, hidden beaches, mountain passes and a moving famine village — all on the Wild Atlantic Way, and all far quieter than the tourist trail further south.
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I’ve just spent a weekend exploring it, and this guide covers the best things to do in Inishowen and the top places to visit, plus how to drive the Inishowen 100, where to stay and where to eat.
Why visit Inishowen?
Inishowen is what people picture when they imagine wild, unspoilt Ireland — big skies, empty beaches, sheer headlands and hardly a tour bus in sight. Because it’s tucked up in the far north, closer to Derry than to anywhere else, it stays gloriously off the radar, so you get world-class scenery with room to breathe. It’s also steeped in history, from an ancient ring fort to famine-era cottages, which makes it as rich for the curious as it is for the view-hungry.
Getting to Inishowen and driving the Inishowen 100
The gateway to the peninsula is Derry, just to the south — from there you’re on Inishowen within minutes. The classic way to see it is the Inishowen 100, a roughly 100-mile signposted scenic loop that circles the whole peninsula and links nearly everything in this guide. You’ll want a car, and I’d give the loop at least a full day, ideally two, so you’re not rushing the best bits.
Click here to rent a car in Ireland.
The best things to do in Inishowen
Here are the stops worth building your loop around. Each of the big ones now has its own detailed guide — follow the links for the full how-to-visit.
Malin Head
Ireland’s most northerly point, and the natural highlight of any Inishowen trip. Wild, windswept and unforgettable, with the old signal tower, the WWII “EIRE 80” stone sign, and Atlantic views that feel like the edge of the world — and yes, it starred in Star Wars.
Read the full guide to Malin Head
Doagh Famine Village
On the Isle of Doagh near Ballyliffin, this open-air living museum walks you through famine-era Irish life in original thatched cottages, led by guides with a personal connection to the place. One of the most moving experiences in the whole county.
Five Finger Strand and Pollan Bay
Two of Inishowen’s finest beaches. Five Finger Strand, near Lag, is backed by some of the tallest sand dunes in Ireland and pounded by Atlantic surf; Pollan Bay stretches wide and golden beside Ballyliffin. Both are wild, beautiful and usually near-empty.
Read the full guide to Five Finger Strand
Carrickabraghy Castle
A romantic 16th-century ruin perched on the rocks at the tip of the Isle of Doagh — free to visit and wonderfully atmospheric, especially at sunset.
Read the full guide to Carrickabraghy Castle
Kinnagoe Bay
A stunning, secluded horseshoe beach on the eastern side of the peninsula, reached by a steep winding road — and the resting place of a Spanish Armada shipwreck. Worth the detour for the sheer sense of getting away from it all.
Read the full guide to Kinnagoe Bay
Mamore Gap
A dramatic mountain pass on the western side, with a steep, hairpinned road climbing between the hills and a little holy well at the top. The views back over Lough Swilly are spectacular.
Read the full guide to Mamore Gap
Glenevin Waterfall
A lovely, family-friendly walk near Clonmany through a wooded glen to a graceful waterfall — an easy leg-stretch and a gorgeous spot.
Read the full guide to Glenevin Waterfall
Grianán of Aileach
A remarkable ancient stone ring fort crowning a hill near the neck of the peninsula, with panoramic views over both Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle. Thousands of years of history and one of the best viewpoints in the north-west.
Read the full guide to Grianán of Aileach
Fort Dunree and Wild Ireland
For a rainy day or a family outing: Fort Dunree is a coastal defence fort and military museum on a dramatic headland over Lough Swilly, while Wild Ireland near Burnfoot is a wildlife sanctuary home to rescued bears, wolves and more.
Read the full guide to Fort Dunree
Inishowen’s towns and villages
Break up the loop in the peninsula’s characterful towns: Buncrana, the largest, on the shores of Lough Swilly; pretty, planned Malin with its village green; Carndonagh, home to an early-Christian high cross; the beach village of Culdaff; and, on the eastern Foyle side, the maritime towns of Moville and Greencastle.
Where to stay on Inishowen: hotels and accommodation
The trip was made by our base. We booked a self-catering Airbnb in Carndonagh — right in the heart of the peninsula — with a sauna and a hot tub, which, after a day of Atlantic wind in your hair, is about the most welcome thing imaginable. Being so central, we had pretty much everything on our list less than 30 minutes away. That’s the quiet magic of Inishowen: it’s compact enough that you can pick one comfortable base and reach the whole peninsula from it, no packing-and-repacking required.
You can find the place we stayed here.
If self-catering isn’t your thing, nearby Ballyliffin has hotels and B&Bs for every budget too. Ballyliffin is the ideal base — central for Malin Head, the beaches and Doagh, with hotels, B&Bs and self-catering cottages to suit every budget. Buncrana and Moville also make handy bases on the west and east sides respectively.
Where to eat on Inishowen
There’s good food dotted around the peninsula — Nancy’s Barn near Ballyliffin is a well-loved spot (its seafood chowder has won awards), and the towns of Buncrana, Moville and Malin have pubs and cafés for a proper meal after a day on the road. Being surrounded by sea, the seafood is hard to beat.
How many days do you need on Inishowen?
You can drive the Inishowen 100 in a single long day, but to actually enjoy it — the beaches, the walks, the famine village, a slow coffee with a view — I’d give it two days with a night in Ballyliffin. It also pairs perfectly with a wider Donegal trip, or a night or two in Derry just across the border.
Plan your Inishowen trip
The Inishowen Peninsula is one of the great corners of the Wild Atlantic Way — and just one part of everything County Donegal has to offer.
Just back from Inishowen yourself, or planning a trip? Tell me in the comments what I should cover next.